Burnt Ends I feel like summer has come back. The air is warm, the water, perfect and the swell has died off. Some fun runners from the point this morning. We had a very relaxed morning in amongst the holiday highway in the ocean.

Green Grass Found myself at a local for about 20 mins this morning in between the chaos of being woken up at 9am and having our belongings spread across two locations, remembering I am shooting video this afternoon and just being a downright mess. Travel life is a...

Persevere I was riding solo this morning. Gives me time to think, and shoot without getting yelled at cause someone needs a banana... Checked 2 spots. Very wobbly and no fun at all at both... but stumbled across a local that was rolling. Sometimes you just have to...