Reset After a crazy 5 days that included family, friends, surgery and intense swell, it was very nice rocking up to 1-2ft rollers, sun, warmth and chats with some of our favourite people. It was nice to have a reset. Slow down. Kids playing on the rocks. People...
Burnt Ends I feel like summer has come back. The air is warm, the water, perfect and the swell has died off. Some fun runners from the point this morning. We had a very relaxed morning in amongst the holiday highway in the...
Green Grass Found myself at a local for about 20 mins this morning in between the chaos of being woken up at 9am and having our belongings spread across two locations, remembering I am shooting video this afternoon and just being a downright mess. Travel life is a...
Persevere I was riding solo this morning. Gives me time to think, and shoot without getting yelled at cause someone needs a banana… Checked 2 spots. Very wobbly and no fun at all at both… but stumbled across a local that was rolling. Sometimes you just...
Cup Filled Some mornings when im shooting, it’s just me and the kids. Some mornings everyone wants to have a chat. This morning my cup is filled. Took some fun shots, had some warming conversations. Honestly, that’s it. That’s the Chapel. People,...
